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Gap between garage door and cement floor
  • I have a frustrating problem that I'm trying to solve without breaking the bank. I just got a new garage door installed on my detached garage. It's a steel door. It replaces a wooden door, which had apparently been trimmed to accommodate the uneven cement floor. Unfortunately, the steel door can't be similarly trimmed, and even with a rubber gasket, there is still a 3-inch gap under about 5 feet of the door. I've been told cement can't simply be "piled on" where needed in order to level the floor. However, jackhammering and re-cementing would get expensive. Does anyone have any ideas how I can "raise" the floor or otherwise seal the gap? (Right now, I have an old blanket in place, but that's not much of a solution.) Any suggestions most appreciated!
  • Well that is a pickle. I honestly don't have any elegant ideas.

    One other idea my be to get some sort of heavy rubber sheeting and tack it to the inside of the door and have it drop down to cover the opening. Rubber or heavy plastic. It kinda depends what you are trying to do by blocking the opening.

    If the idea is to keep animals out, maybe the trick would be to hang some barbed wire down so that the little buggers will stay out.

    But, yeah, that's a pain.
  • Well, here's what we did - create a small speed bump out of asphalt on your driveway (so it looks like it's part of the driveway where it ends at your garage) along the front of the garage door. Add one of those door sealer things attached to the bottom of the garage door. Voila! No gap.
  • Shabe -- Yes, want to keep the animals out and also prevent every leaf and acorn from blowing into the garage! (You're kidding about the barbed wire, I hope!)

    TigerLilly -- Can you apply asphalt directly over cement? If so, a "speed bump" might do the trick.
  • Yeah, the asphalt speed bump goes over the end of the driveway part and may overlap the beginnings of the cement floor of the garage, so it kind of blends in. I'll try to take a picture of it in the next couple of days and post it for you, so you know how we have it setup. I'm not sure I'm explaining it right, but it works really well - our garage is bone dry.
  • BTW - I thought my husband was crazy when he proposed putting in a speed bump there....I thought it would be the biggest eyesore, but I have to say, he was right....either I just got used to it or it really isn't that noticable...and it works.... :bigsmile:
  • uni - as well as asphalt, you could also 'mold' a ribbon of concrete directly on the existing slab. It's adhesion over time might wear out (fracture or breakup, that is...) from cars running over it, but if you have to replace it every few years, is it really that big a deal? also btw, I highly doubt it'd run you more than $500 to have a masonry/concrete contractor come over, saw cut a channel/trench and repour a new 'lip' area to better meet the door. but,,,, whatever works easier.....
  • TigerLilly -- Thanks. I'm not overly concerned about the appearance, because we have a long driveway and our garage is set way back. If you do get a chance to post a picture, that would be great.

    jeffbryant -- I'm not sure how a ribbon of concrete could be molded over the slab. I figure that the asphalt TL describes might "stick," but would concrete atop concrete? (Re $500: I'd hate spending that much money for this purpose, esp after just having paid about $1600 for the door.)
  • uni.... conc. would be placed/molded the same way you'd put the asphalt down, & the concrete will 'stick' pretty much as the asphalt. Look, both materials will fracture over time by the car going over it. So, try a test ribbon of either. What have you got to lose? ...except the gap.... ;-)
  • Sorry it took me so long to post this. Hope this helps show what I was talking about.
  • And on the bottom of the door is something like this
  • And on the bottom of the door is something like this
  • TigerLilly -- Thanks so much. That's exactly what I need. I appreciate your sharing that picture.
  • Tigerlady, looking at the picture and since a lot of the concrete inside the garage (the garage side is on the left?) it wouldn't be at all difficult to chip out the concrete and pour new concrete so the edge will be level.
  • Posted By: bobkTigerlady, looking at the picture and since a lot of the concrete inside the garage (the garage side is on the left?) it wouldn't be at all difficult to chip out the concrete and pour new concrete so the edge will be level.

    Oh bob - you're probably right - I'm sure that wouldn't be difficult for many to, I have no handy skills. None whatsoever.....
  • in Tigerlilly's example, use of the asphaltic "curb" (for lack of a better label for the transition/'make-up' piece) sure makes a lot of sense. Whether that asphalt strip rests on the garage conc slab or not, her drive surface is asphalt right up to the door (per the photo). So, the 'ribbon' or 'curb' looks like it could/should be there -aesthetically- and, further, because it does touch or meet the drive's asphalt surface [however slight that touching is] there's actually a like-materials bond occuring there, resulting in a somewhat 'stronger' installation.

    In many cases though, a conc. apron extends outside from the garage 2'-3' before asphalt begins. When an apron exists, placing an asphaltic 'curb' wouldn't be the "best" choice (because 1- w/ dissimilar materials [asphalt & concrete), there's less inherent bonding going on and 2. it'd 'look' awkward... y'know, black asphalt ribbon surrounded by white conc. on either side....).

    So unicorn, w/o seeing or knowing what condition your garage & drive are, using a conc. 'curb' might be the most prudent choice. Either asphalt or concrete is still better than the towel, though ;-) Good luck.
  • I'm thinking about rather than trimming the door to fit, or building up the ground, perhaps building the bottom of the door down with something neater than your current blanket.

    You only need three inches on a taper for about five feet, then the door reaches the ground? Am I picturing this right?

    I would think you could find something, maybe an aluminum gutter, or even better maybe a vinyl gutter that could be cut to fit and would have a right angle to attach to the bottom of the door.

    One peice of vinyl gutter, plus some screws and a couple pushes on a hacksaw -- done in one afternoon. Not too tough on the pocketbook.
    Post edited by jersey_boy at 2007-09-27 23:59:28
  • Knock the garage down and rebuild it with a rotating upper level for an observatory.
  • jeffbryant -- Thanks. You make good points. That is indeed the situation I have, with the concrete extending out into the driveway a couple of feet.

    jerseyboy -- That sure would be the easiest, if it were doable. I'm not quite sure how one would attach such a piece to a steel door, but I could pose the question to a handyman (which I most definitely am not!).
  • Posted By: unicorn33jerseyboy -- That sure would be the easiest, if it were doable. I'm not quite sure how one would attach such a piece to a steel door, but I could pose the question to a handyman (which I most definitely am not!).

    This is doable with self-drillling machine screws and a drill with a screwdriver attachment. Unicorn, don't wuss out now, we've got a cheap and easy solution. THIS IS WHAT THIS SECTION IS ALL ABOUT!!

    It's the weekend, if you want I'll try to stop by and tell you how to do it. (My wife will kill me if I do someone else's project before we've finished the nursery. But I could just stop by...)

    Whisper me a phone number and I'll call you if I'm going out.
  • jerseyboy -- Sorry for the delay in response, but didn't see your message till this morning (Monday). I will whisper you my number, and if you do get a moment, I'd certainly find it helpful to hear your ideas.
  • Hi, I had the same problem. Skillman Doors fixed it for me-cheap! They just put in an extra wide rubber band( maybe a gasket) it seals the gap between the door and ground pretty well.
  • sharon -- Thanks for the suggestion. Skillman put in my new door. However, the gap at its widest point is 3 inches, and Skillman's wide gasket in only 2 inches. Unfortunately, I didn't realize this at the start. My original understanding was that a wide gasket would do the trick, but either Skillman didn't make the discrepancy clear or else they did and I just didn't register it. A wide gasket would help, but the remaining 1-inch gap would still let debris get in, along with Mickey, Minnie, and other mice...
  • Bill Jr. (from Skillman) put in a band much wider than 3 inches on mine. To be honest ,mice can still get under it probably, but I haven't had any water or debris problems. And it stopped larger animals for sure.
    Post edited by sharon at 2007-10-01 12:56:35
  • Hmmm -- When I called last week, they told me 2 inches was their widest.
This discussion has been closed.
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